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As a general rule, the tighter the bend, the more the wood will
spring back, making the allowance a matter of trial and error at best.
As laminating thin strips is the easiest method, we’ll begin with
that process. The finished thickness of the project will have a direct
bearing on the size of the strips to be used, but generally, the
heaviest strip to use is about ¼” thick. Tight bends may have to be done
with 1/8″ strips or thinner, depending on the wood species. Sounds like
a lot of experimenting, but I’m afraid that’s a necessary evil.
The form required for laminating can be as simple as a piece of pipe
or as complex as a multi-station die. I like to keep things as simple as
possible.
When laminating thin strips, you can minimize effort and spring back
by soaking the strips before bending, and clamping them in the mold
without gluing. Once they are dry, remove them from the mold, spread the
glue and re-clamp them in the mold. Line the mold with waxed paper to
prevent the lamination from sticking to the mold.
When I soak strips, I do so in an open container, and depending on
the wood and the size of the strips, I soak them from 15 minutes to
overnight. I also mix in a half cup of fabric softener per gallon of
water. I find that it softens wood nearly as well as fabric.
If the project is small, and open time on the glue is not a factor,
I’ll use poly-vinyl-acetate, or aliphatic resin glue. If I need more
working time, I’ll use epoxy or resorcinol.
